I hadn’t bought anymore airsoft replica’s since the King Arms Thompson. But I was saving up for a real deactivated BAR. Still a distant ambition though, as they can set you back 1500 – 2500 euros. The VFC airsoft BAR, though excellent, still cost over a €1000. So a Chinese copy had been a long time coming. With everyone going full-metal now, the collector benefits. ACM just released this beautiful metal replica. I read they had some issues with the supplier of the wood furniture, so the first ones will be with fake wood parts, but don’t let this hold you back. Because in this review I will show that you can make this replica look like the real deal without breaking the bank.

ACM M1918 BAR with accessories

As it was only €330, I pre-ordered one right away. Out of the box, the finish of the metal and the detailing already looks really nice. After some simple aging work, it simply looks stunning! So let’s have a look:

Detail of the original WW2 wood handguard. Note there's only 1 screw on the side now.

What you need to obtain the same result as in these photos: fine steel wool, a wood file (big, straight), an original wooden handguard and black acrylic paint (from your hobby store).

The stock has been painted black with acrylic paint

The stock has been painted black, as WW2 BARs generally had black composit stocks instead of wood. Wood is for WW1 BARs. At some militaria sites you can get surplus WW2 or 1950’s BAR furniture. But I don’t know if an original stock will fit on this replica, and if you try, be sure to get a WW2 version. The 1950’s version has a different texture to it. But if the price were right, I think I could live with that. It’s a subtle difference. As you can see in the photos though, the painted stock looks very nice. Do remove all the metal parts before painting, but don’t try to remove the stock from the weapon, as you will likely damage it!

Detail of the butt plate

The magazine that comes with the weapon is a black metal high cap. Pretty nice, but it has a hole in it on one side. That does stand out. And when you look at reference books, the magazine is never really black, but a more greyish shade you can’t accomplish by rubbing the replica magazine with steel wool. In the photo below you will notice that the airsoft magazine is a bit shorter than the real magazines. This is to allow for the airsoft internals of the rifle. The part that extends has the same length. Also the outer dimensions are exactly the same. So after some hesitation (no, a lot of hesitation), I at last cut down one of my original magazines to the same height. And ‘click’, it fits! When you do this too, I recommend you first strip the magazine. When finished you put the follower, spring and base plate back in, and you slightly bend the cut-off edge, just to make sure the follower doesn’t shoot out again.

The cut-off original magazine (standing), a normal original magazine (left) and the hi-cap mag (right)

The cut-off original magazine (standing), a normal original magazine (left) and the hi-cap mag (right)

You can fit a leather or canvas sling. Good luck finding an original leather sling. These are very rare. I got mine 15 years ago, thinking it was a sling for the Garand. It looks the same as the M1903/M1 Garand sling, but it has three prongs instead of two. For re-enactment purposes, I think a repro Garand sling, properly aged, will do fine. Or you can opt for a khaki canvas sling.

Detail of flash hider and bipod attachment

The steel bipod that comes with it even has some markings stamped into it and already looks and feels like the real deal. As with the original, the bipod rotates freely around the bipod attachment behind the flash hider. So you won’t be able to display the weapon resting on the bipod, because it will tend to fall on it’s side.

The markings at the top of the receiver look authentic enough. Generally, I prefer no markings to fake markings, but these look authentic enough.

This BAR now displays like a million dollar bill! The aging is pretty easy as you can see. Just watch out when you remove the fire selector. There’s a small spring with a pin behind it which will fly away if you’re not careful.

Detail of ejection port and markings on top

Now, airsoft performance-wise, I have to warn you to buy a decent battery and charger separately. The one that comes with it is absolutely worthless and I thought my gun was broken. This does drive up the price a bit. To me it’s not an issue, as I am not much interested in firing it. So if you’re interested in this rifle as a skirmish weapon, you need to check up on some other reviews.

I ordered mine at loopingshop.be, but airsoftnews.fr has more photos and a video.



ACM M1918 BAR review — 8 Comments

  1. Hi, from Budapest, Hungary!
    Is this beuty work well? Not broken in short time? How was in the field – does it have a good metal? Is the AY or Matrix produced now? Can you help me, in these questions?

    Thank you!


    • Hi, So far I have only had it on display. The replica is really nice, especially after I aged it and replaced the handguard and added a real sling. But the battery that comes with it is worthless. So far I still haven’t bought a replacement, but I’m told its best to use a ‘FBK’ charger Li-Po intelligent with a ‘FKB’ battery, 7.4v 1100mAh Li-Po 15C or ‘FKB’ 7.4v 2200mAh Li-Po 20C. Hope this helps!
      grtz, Wouter

      • Hi Wouter!

        Yes it’s help out me! Another one question – is the bakelite stock fit well? I saw the pictures from the wood furntiure, which were made for replace the imitated wood, ant it has an aluminium protesis. I saw on the e-bay a black bakelite stock, and it hasn’t got this aluminium end. You aged well, and I’m going to make mine too like yours look like. And I worried about the materials – mostly the steel ones ‘couse we use it hardly!

        Thank you for the answers!

    • Hello
      I’m sure three years later this doesn’t do you much good, but if anybody ever reads this: I tried to convert one to original furniture. The original handguard requires only a very small amount of filing to fit. It can be done in half an hour. The carrying handle wood grip is just as easy, most of the work is in removing the metal caps from the plastic one.

      The stock is another story. The original A2 stock is slightly different in all dimensions, and because of the real A2 BAR’s buffer tube assembly, an original stock WILL NOT fit the airsoft gun without EXTENSIVE modification and reworking. My advice: do not attempt to convert the stock.

      Luckily, because of the BAR’s mixed construction furniture, there’s no obvious mismatch when you have real wood furniture, but fake composite. I only wasted half of my money as opposed to all of it lol

  2. Another three years since any comments here. Here goes anyway. My grandfather was in ww2 as a bombardier aboard a b-24 liberator in northern africa and italy (if I’m remembering right) and my father wasn’t accepted into any military branch due to his poor eyesight caused by being born premature and I think because of that regret his fascination and interest to mainly all ww2 aircraft but otherwise ww2 as a whole historically. As such I’ve always had a huge interest as well and have always really been drawn to the B.A.R. for the active use in it’s service lifespan and have recently purchased an airsoft replica B.A.R. as well as an mp44 for my father. His has already been delivered and he’s already to the best possible way weathered and authenticated it to look as much the real thing as he could (believe the military stocks of the mp44 were not of wood, but the airsoft replicas all come as that). My B.A.R. will be coming in another day or two and I’ll be taking steps to achieve a realism from my replica similarly to your end result so this will be very helpful and it is much appreciated!. My apologies for the lengthy read if ever this catches anyones eyes. If you can see my email address as the author of this review feel free to e-mail me if you can give any extra tips to me as I’ve never really done this and my knowledge is limited on specific methods to achieve what you did.

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